Exactly half a century ago, on May 16, 1975, The Japanese Junko Tabei became the first woman in the world to reach the summit of Everest. The first woman to open a road, to cross a limit, to represent a symbol for many other women in the most varied fields. Today, 50 years later, the highest mountain on the planet is preparing to celebrate a new historical goal: The thousandth female ascension. Going up to 8,849 meters (29,032 feet) of Everest was an almost exclusively male undertaking for decades. According to an AFP analysis based on the data of the Himalayan Database, by May 2025 women had reached the top 962 times, against 11,955 male ascents.
When Junko Tabei touched the summit in 1975, only 38 men had preceded it. His all female expedition also faced economic obstacles: many sponsors refused support, suggesting that women would do better to “look after children”. “All men limit our likes and I do not want to be limited“, Tabei wrote in his notebook on his return. Only eleven days later, the Tibetan Phantog also conquered the Evant from the opposite side, believing he was the first. He only discovered after the descent that Tabei had preceded it. Tabei did not stop: in his diary he noted the following objectives – climbing the K2 and returning to work in a scientific magazine.
Today 870 women have climbed the Everest
Over the years, 870 women of 85 nationalities have reached the summit, some even more than once. After the Nepalese, the countries with the largest number of women at the top of Everest have been united, India and China, which together represent 39% of female ascents. But Among the Sherpa, the local Nepalese guides, women remain very rare. Only 9% of female ascents are signed by Nepalese, against 50% of male ones. To date, the only certified women’s guide guidance is internationally Dan Yan Yanzum Sherpawho climbed the Everest in 2012 and obtained the diploma in 2018.
“It’s a difficult job, especially for a girl. Many told me it wasn’t a job for women,” he told the FP. Before her, in 1993Attach you It was the first Nepalese woman who joined the summit. He died during the descent, remaining back to help a colleague hit by mountain pain. Today it is a national heroine, and the trekking towards the base camp of Everest begins under an arch dedicated to her. It happened to her Lhakpa Serpawho conquered the record of woman with the greatest number of ascents: 10 climbing.
In 1988, Lydia Bradey (New Zealand) He became the first woman to climb Everest without oxygen cylinders. He did everything alone, and his companions – returned to Kathmandu – initially questioned success. Since he had used an unauthorized way, he decided not to officially claim the company, which was however recognized years later. Go up without oxygen remains very rare: only 229 climbs (less than 1%), and just 10 signed by women.
According to Billi Bierling, mountaineer and director of the Himalayan Database, “Women are often more cautious at high altitude. If they feel that something is wrong, they choose to go down, while men tend to risk more “. Yet, successful rates tell a challenge still open: only 66% of women trying the Everest manage, against 75% of men. But the mortality statistics are harder for the latter: a woman dies every 153 attempts, one man every 70. Even if they remain clearly in minority, The female presence is constantly growing. In the 2000s there was one woman every 16 men, today the relationship is one every 10. “I know many women who do not get married today, have no children, earn well and choose to climb 8,000 meters,” concluded Bierling.