There are culinary myths born of an error, such as the Tatin pie. For white butter, essential for Nantes gastronomy, it’s a bit the same. It seems that Clémence would have invented it on the banks of the Loire, forgetting to link his Béarnaise sauce with an egg and add tarragon. “This is in any case my favorite myth,” smiles Philippe Maizières, the chief and new owner of “Clémence” in Saint-Julien-de-Concelles (Loire-Atlantique).
After more than eighteen months of closure, for lack of buyer, the mythical house which saw the birth of this emulsioned butter sauce with white wine, vinegar and shallots, was finally able to reopen its shutters overlooking the river, under ‘Impulse of a couple who threw themselves into the big bath. “We thought there was a crazy charm here, a view of the Loire but also an extraordinary story,” smiles Adrien Bavière, Philippe’s companion.
“Everyone tests us on the sauce”
Since then, white butter fanatics have flocked around. “It’s very fun but also touching: we are not reserved for a table but we are told that we are going to come and eat a white butter, have fun Adrien and Philippe. We pass on the grill at each service. Everyone is testing us on the sauce, besides it shows the consumption of bread! »»
The chef assures him, there will obviously always be a white butter here à la carte but he does not want to become a “museum” of the sauce. “We are here in full in market gardening lands and on the banks of the Loire. The vineyard is at our door. I want to work on river fish, pretty vegetables and wines from our neighbors. »»
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