Ex-Top Chef, Michelin-starred Matthias Marc, returns to Doubs: “I couldn’t see myself raising my daughter in Paris”

The snow is still present on the banks of Lake Saint-Point, the largest in Doubs. At the edge of a pier, a large building with pink plaster has had its curtains drawn for several weeks. The former hotel-restaurant “L’atelier de Donat” has changed hands and is about to undergo major work. It is here, 450 km from the capital, that Michelin-starred Parisian chef Matthias Marc (“Substance”, in the 16th arrondissement) decided to settle down.

The man revealed to the general public by the show Top Chef, of which he was a semi-finalist in 2021, is back on his native land after twelve years in Paris. “It’s the call of the country as they say. I grew up in Franche-Comté and, originally, I went to live in Paris for a year. Ultimately, I stayed there for twelve years, confides Matthias Marc, currently in the middle of moving. I loved Paris and I love Paris, it’s my city, but the desire to return to the country was strong. »

“I wanted to join the countryside and nature”

Aged 32, the cook explored for a long time. “By leaving the city, I wanted to reach the countryside and nature. I didn’t want to be in a smaller town. » Another aspect worked in favor of Doubs: “As a child, I had the chance to grow up in the middle of rivers and forests with my cousins. And I couldn’t see myself raising my daughter in Paris. »

To carry out this somewhat crazy challenge, the chef visited a few places in complete discretion. His choice ultimately fell on this establishment, located on the banks of Lake Saint-Point, which attracts many tourists every year. “My wife is from the Île de Ré. So that I could bring her to Franche-Comté, I had to find a great place… In Malbuisson (Doubs), we are close to Switzerland, a train not far from there which connects Paris in less than three hours, downhill bike trails (which he is passionate about) and above all crazy products. »

Comté, cancoillotte, morbier, Montbéliard sausage, vin jaune… He intends to feature these specialties on his menu, as he did in his Parisian establishment. “The objective is to create an establishment of haute cuisine with a 360° experience around the terroir. We will also have ten rooms available. »

So many arguments that could appeal to the critics of the Michelin guide, who have already rewarded his cuisine with a star by describing it as “uninhibited and lively, with a creative and willingly plant-based touch”. “I am fed the Red Guide. I grew up in Michelin-starred restaurants. So, we don’t hide it: we go there with determination and modesty, but the objective is to recover this star,” warns the thirty-year-old, who also counts on the terroir to achieve this.

“I questioned myself about what I should offer. In my region, the specialties consist of convivial dishes. But I believe we can bring something much more gastronomic. I will try to promote this cuisine on a national level and make local people proud. » Work in the building he has just acquired should begin in the coming days, with an opening planned for the start of the second half of 2026.