A cave sauna lies in the middle of the forest, with a stream babbling on the floor – this and many other private saunas are also accessible to the public

Tie takes you through open fields to the middle of the forest in Kemiönsaari’s Björkboda. You can only hear the hum of the wind and the chirping of a bird.

Storfinnhova Gård’s smoke sauna should be hiding somewhere here, where even today 60 guests are relaxing.

First you can see a tufted grass roof, a log wall rising from the ground, and then a terrace with a brook babbling under it. Small cottages built on tall poles loom in the background.