The ‘fate’ of Hainanese chicken rice in Southeast Asia

Original Hainanese chicken rice must be made from Wenchang chicken, an endemic chicken breed of Hainan Island, China. Small-sized free-range chickens are raised on a separate diet of banyan tree seeds, coconut rice and peanut bran. This feeding process helps the meat have a firmness, sweetness and aroma that is different from industrial chicken breeds.

The predecessor of Hainanese chicken rice was a frugal meal for poor workers. They often carry rice and chicken in bamboo baskets to eat along the way. This dish is believed to have been introduced to the mainland since the early Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), then followed the flow of migrants from Hainan to spread throughout Southeast Asia in the 19th century. Families in Hainan often take advantage of old chickens (waste chickens) to cook, using chicken fat to steam rice and make broth.

By the mid-20th century, the supply of Van Xuong chickens became scarce due to political upheaval. Instead of disappearing, this dish still spreads when adopted by indigenous cultures. At each stop, the local community tweaks the recipe and changes the ingredients, creating regional variations.

Both Malaysia and Singapore claim to be the birthplace of the modern version of Hainanese chicken rice, boiled chicken based on Cantonese techniques, served with rice cooked in rich broth and signature dipping sauces. This controversy has persisted since Singapore’s independence in 1965.

Hainanese chicken rice in Singapore is the most popular version. The difference lies in the Cantonese chicken boiling technique. After being cooked, the chicken is immediately soaked in ice water to create a crispy skin. Rice is cooked with broth, chicken fat, pandan leaves and garlic. The accompanying dipping sauce includes three types, ground chili sauce, minced ginger and dark soy sauce.

In Malaysia, in cities like Malacca or Seremban, rice is rolled into balls to keep warm. In addition to boiled chicken, Malaysians also love roast chicken or eating it with noodles. In the Ipoh region, this dish is always served with blanched bean sprouts, a famous agricultural product that is plump and crispy thanks to the local mineral water.

Thai people call Hainanese chicken rice Khao Man Gai. The special feature is the dipping sauce made from fermented black bean mixed with garlic, ginger and chili pepper. A portion of rice is often added with chicken blood and internal organs and served with a bowl of soup in Tomyum style. In Bangkok, the crispy fried chicken rice version is also popular.

In Vietnam, a variation similar to Hainanese chicken rice is Hoi An chicken rice. Chicken is usually shredded, mixed with onions and coriander, and served with rice cooked with turmeric. Unlike other countries in the region, chicken rice in Vietnam focuses on freshness when served with a variety of raw vegetables, shredded green mango and sweet and sour fish sauce.

On Hainan Island, the dish still retains its rustic preparation. The chicken is cut into pieces with bones, chewier and firmer than the Southeast Asian version. The dipping sauce only includes ginger, garlic and coriander, without using dark soy sauce or sweet chili sauce. The broth is sometimes stewed with pork bones to increase the flavor.

The popularity of this dish is considered by experts to be the result of cultural interference in the overseas Chinese community.