“Love at first sight for a profession”: in Île-de-France, alternative bakers are blowing up the frames

The kindling glows intensely in the hearth of the oven. With its silhouette of a large metal barrel, it is a bit of an attraction that you can’t take your eyes off. “Be careful, I’m going to mist,” warns Bulle Meignan before opening the mouth of the tin beast. Wearing matching blue, cap and apron, the baker pours a little water under the plates where her bread is baking. A cloud of steam escapes, accompanied by a delicious crackling sound. It looks like the gentle awakening of a dragon and it’s spectacular.

Silence falls again. It’s coffee time. “The steaming helps moisten the surface of the bread, so that it rises and the skin is golden and shiny,” she explains. On deck since 6:30 a.m., she will put in a dozen hours of work. The atmosphere is almost monastic in this former car garage located a stone’s throw from the town center of Aubervilliers, in Seine-Saint-Denis.

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