The reports describe how workers in the garment sector are discouraged from joining unions. Many fear dismissal, intimidation or even violence when they demand their rights. Syndicalists are witnessing threats and repression, while governments in the four countries are creating legal obstacles that hinder the formation of independent unions. For example, special zones have been established in Bangladesh and Sri Lanka where trade unions are prohibited, while in India women working from home do not enjoy social protection or trade union rights. In Pakistan, workers struggle with unpaid wages and contracts that are not honored.
Amnesty speaks of an “odious alliance” between brands, factory management and governments that perpetuates the exploitation of a largely female and underpaid workforce. Although 21 international fashion brands and retailers have formal codes of conduct that should guarantee freedom of association, the research shows that independent trade unions are hardly present in their supply chains. The organization calls on states to provide legal guarantees and oblige companies to strict controls to prevent abuses.
Value of $1 trillion
The textile industry is worth $1 trillion worldwide and employs almost 100 million people, the majority of whom are women. In the four countries studied, the sector accounts for 40 percent of industrial employment. Amnesty emphasizes that freedom of association and collective bargaining are essential to combat structural exploitation and violations of labor rights.