The world’s most expensive mushroom is threatened by climate change

Truffle mushrooms, also known as white truffles, are often found in the town of Alba, Piedmont, Italy, and have a strong aroma and strangely sweet taste, sometimes with a faint scent of garlic.

Truffle mushrooms are known as the “king of mushrooms” because of their high nutritional value and unmistakable characteristic scent. Every dish only needs a slice of mushroom to bring out its wonderful flavor. Because of its rarity and unique flavor, the price of this mushroom is more expensive than lobster, more expensive than gold bars and any other type of mushroom.

With limited supplies and skyrocketing demand, white truffles cost up to $4,790/kg at the International Alba White Truffle Fair, which ended on December 8 this year. Two twin white truffles sharing the same root were the highlight at the fair, weighing 905 grams and selling for $150,000 to a Hong Kong billionaire.

As expensive as they are, white truffles are in decline. Over the past three decades, the area devoted to white truffles in Italy has decreased by 30%, giving way to more profitable vineyards and hazelnut forests. But the main threat to white truffles is climate change. Global warming, deforestation and sudden temperature changes are all contributing factors to the weakening of this fungus’ natural habitat.

Unlike other common mushrooms, white truffles grow underground, symbiotically with hardwood trees by clinging to their roots. To survive, truffles need a cold and humid environment. However, in early November, the temperature in the region was 20 degrees Celsius. With the prolonged summer weather, production is decreasing.

Carlo Marenda founded the association “Save the Truffle” in 2015 with natural science researcher Edmondo Bonelli. “If we want to prevent truffles from disappearing, we must protect forests, stop polluting water sources and plant new trees,” they shared. Ten years later, thanks to the donations and support of many wine growers, the association has planted more than 700 trees in the Langhe hills, including birch, oak and linden trees.

The harvest season, which lasts from October to late January, is becoming shorter. With cold weather and snow appearing later, the scent of truffles is not 100% and does not last long, according to Marenda. Heavy rain like the last few weeks can also be harmful. “If there’s too little water, the truffles don’t grow. If there’s too much water, the truffles will rot,” he said.

Whether truffles are on the verge of extinction or not, according to Mario Aprile, president of the Piedmont truffle hunting association, white truffles cannot be cultivated like black ones. Without trees, fungi would not exist, so it is necessary to plant trees to restore ecological diversity.