From a predator extinct 66 million years ago to a luxury handbag: scientists have created the first lab-grown leather from reconstructed proteins from the T-Rexan advance of synthetic biology towards sustainable materials.
In a project that combines synthetic biology, artificial intelligence and tissue engineering to rethink the future of materials, an international group of scientists has used reconstructed dinosaur protein and turned it into leather to create a 21st-century luxury item.
The project is based on data on collagen – a key protein in the structure of the skin – extracted from fragments found in fossils attributed to this dinosaur.
Since the genetic material is incomplete, The researchers used computational models to predict, with the help of artificial intelligence, the missing amino acid sequences and reconstruct a complete version of the protein.
This sequence was then synthesized in the laboratory and introduced into cultured cells, which acted as “biological factories.”
Through advanced tissue engineering, these cells multiplied and autonomously generated a collagen-rich tissue, without the need for animals or external synthetic structures, which is one of the common limitations in this type of process.
This has given rise to a material that reproduces the resistance and structure of traditional leather, but with less environmental impact and without the use of animals.
The most tangible result, which will be at the Art Zoo in Amsterdam until May 11, is a luxury bag designed by the firm Enfin Levé, and which is exhibited to the public as a proof of concept along with a full-scale recreation of the T-Rex, a staging that highlights the contrast between past and technology.
The project is the result of a collaboration between Lab-Grown Leather Ltd., The Organoid Company and the creative group VML, who ensure that this advance demonstrates, for the first time, the possibility of reconstructing proteins from extinct species and using them to manufacture functional biomaterials on a larger scale.
“It is a clear example of how synthetic biology can go beyond health and into industrial and materials science applications,” said Thomas Mitchell of The Organoid Company.
According to the researchers, unlike other alternatives, the process allows cells to self-organize and produce their own matrix, resulting in a biodegradable, repairable and traceable material, compatible with conventional leather finishing techniques.
Beyond the symbolic impact of “reviving” biological elements of a dinosaur, those responsible for the work insist on its practical potential.
Traditional leather production is associated with the environmental effects of intensive livestock farming, deforestation and the use of polluting chemicals, which has driven the search for sustainable alternatives.
In this sense, Using modified cells to grow leather directly in the laboratory eliminates the need to sacrifice animals and significantly reduces the environmental impact of the processalthough its large-scale viability still needs to be proven.
Bas Korsten, creative director of VML, explained that laboratory-grown leather does not convince the luxury world as it is “perceived as imitation” and, therefore, this group of scientists “went back 66 million years; and the result is a material that does not copy the past, but rather reimagines it.”
Although the first application was for a design object, those responsible for the project plan to scale the production of the so-called T-Rex Leather and extend its use to sectors such as fashion, automotive or advanced materials.
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