Yet 15 years ago, the attractions of the Atacama were the natural wonders of the desert considered to be the driest place in the world: the barren, beautiful valley of the moon Valle de la Luna, the white shimmering salt fields with towering volcanoes in the background, the deep blue mountain ponds with Andean flamingos, the del Tation geysers pumping steam in the early morning and the Puritama hot springs.