The small country that became a magnet for Israelis

Albania in the Balkans was for years a closed enigma, but in the last decade it opens up to the world and becomes a hot destination, especially for Israelis. Turquoise beaches, dramatic mountains, ancient cities and stories unlike anywhere else in Europe.

The new season of the race for a million continues (new episode on Saturday, after the news, Keshet 12), and this time the new couples were launched from Albania, and like Montenegro where the first round of couples was launched, here too it is a small place with a big character, and history, culture and landscapes meet in almost every corner.

Modern Albania is a relatively young country, but its history is far from calm. For decades she lived under one of the harshest and most closed communist regimes in Europe, almost completely cut off from the outside world. Citizens could not leave the country, Western culture was banned, and even religion was outlawed. Only in the early 1990s, with the fall of the regime, did Albania begin to open up and since then it has been trying to complete decades of isolation at an extremely fast pace.

Albanians do not call their country “Albania”, but Shqipëria: “Land of Eagles”. The double-headed eagle that appears on the red flag is much more than a symbol: it is an expression of pride, independence and national identity. The origin of the symbol dates back to the Middle Ages, and it accompanies the Albanians to this day in flags, tattoos, graffiti and even shop signs.

The Albanian language is considered one of the most mysterious languages ​​in Europe. It belongs to the Indo-European language family, but is not similar to English, French or Italian, nor to any other modern language. Linguists believe that this is a remnant of a very ancient language, perhaps from the time of the Illyrians who lived in the area thousands of years ago. For visitors, the meaning is clear: hard to understand, hard to pronounce, but very easy to recognize.

One of the most confusing moments for visitors to Albania happens in the simplest conversation. A shake of the head, which in the rest of the world means “no”, actually means “yes” here. Conversely, nodding up and down means no. The origin of this is not entirely clear, but the popular explanation is that it is an ancient custom from the time of the Ottoman rule. In order not to get into trouble, it is better to listen to the words: “Fu” is yes, “Joe” is not.

In 1967, Albania declared itself “the first atheist country in the world”. All religious expression was banned, churches and mosques were destroyed or converted into warehouses and sports halls, and faith was considered a criminal offense. The great irony is that today Albania is considered one of the most religiously tolerant countries in Europe, and in many squares you can see a mosque and a church side by side, without anyone raising an eyebrow.

During Albania’s isolation period, the communist regime built tens of thousands of concrete bunkers all over the country, from the beaches to the mountain tops. The fear of an invasion was obsessive, but in practice no bunker was put into it. Today the bunkers are an integral part of the landscape: some are museums, some cafes, and others just stand there, like concrete mushrooms, as a reminder of the paranoid past.

Because of years of poverty and isolation, millions of Albanians left the country and today live throughout Europe and the United States. In Italy and Greece, for example, the Albanian community is one of the largest. The money sent home became for years a central engine of the local economy, and also contributed to the fact that Albania was gradually opened to Western influences, long before it was officially opened to tourists.

After dinner, the Albanians go to Xhiro, a regular evening walk through the streets of the city. It is not related to fitness or a specific destination, but to a meeting, conversation and being part of the public space. In many cities the main streets are closed to cars, and the whole city goes outside. Those who want to understand the local rhythm, should just join.

Despite increasing openness to the world, Albania still maintains a very local character. There is not a single McDonald’s branch in it, and the food remains family and based on traditional cuisine. Coffee is also a serious matter: you don’t drink it “on the road”, but sit, talk and let time pass. A bit like before, only with excellent espresso.

Those who drive the roads of Albania will immediately notice the unusual amount of Mercedes vehicles, sometimes decades old. The reason is simple: after the fall of communism it was the most reliable vehicle for the mountainous and difficult roads. Over time, the Mercedes turned from just a car into a symbol of success, survival and pride, social status on four wheels.