A train trip to Swedish Lapland offers a stylish atmosphere of a bygone era and snow scenes

from Helsinki it says on the side of the departing night train Aurora Borealis Express. That’s a good omen, because we’re going north to look for the northern lights.

The purpose is to travel in the style of old times, and the nostalgic atmosphere can be found right away in the restaurant car. At worn wooden tables, people eat salmon soup and meatballs, drink red wine and play board games. Finnish families and Japanese tourists share the same goal: to get to a real, snowy winter.