White instead of red, light instead of heavy and, ideally, without alcohol – Italy’s wine producers are currently in great demand, as can be seen from the industry’s big meeting in Verona.
Is she coming, isn’t she coming? Until Monday morning, that was the big question at Vinitaly, the big wine fair in Verona. This meant Giorgia Meloni, Italy’s Prime Minister. For a long time it was unclear whether she would pay her respects to the industry. She finally gave in to pressure from her brother-in-law, Agriculture Minister Francesco Lollobrigida, and attended the event – despite crises and war in Ukraine and Israel.
Giorgia Melonis Rede at the Vinitaly in Verona.
“These are somewhat complex days,” she then said, alluding to the current geopolitical situation after stepping onto the big stage in Verona, “but I really wanted to be here today.” And the flying visit turned into a visit lasting several hours: a tour of the site, where over 4,000 wine producers present their products, tastings, selfies.
Sparkling wines are particularly popular with boys
Italy is the country with the largest wine production and the largest wine exports in the world, ahead of France and Spain. Together, the three European countries account for 53 percent of world production. And agriculture, says Meloni, “is the identity-forming heart of the nation we are rebuilding.” Verona was therefore “passage obligé” for the head of government.
Wine is as much a part of Italy as Ferragosto is of summer. Anyone who is self-respecting grows their own wine. Bruno Vespa, the host of the most important political talk show on television, as well as Massimo D’Alema, ex-communist and ex-prime minister, to name just two examples.
But they all have to relearn. Because the wine industry is changing, as the latest figures show. “Tramonto rosso” – red sunset, that was the recent headline in “Repubblica”. This refers to the steady decline in red wine production, long the pride of Italian producers. Brunello di Montalcino, Amarone, Barolo, the super Tuscans from the Maremma – these and other types of wine represented Italy’s rise to the top class of viticulture.
At the beginning of the century, the share of red wines in total global wine production was an average of 48 percent, but it has now fallen to 43 percent, according to a study by the International Organization for Vine and Wine (OIV) from the end of February. White wine has really taken off, with its share now at 49 percent. It is fueled by the global success of Italian sparkling wines, especially Prosecco.
Experts explain the trend with changing consumption habits. High-quality white wines are increasingly being offered in top restaurants, and there are more and more of them in Italy. Their pleasant acidity and freshness go better with the dishes from star restaurants.
Added to this – especially in Italy – is the extensive aperitif culture. While people used to meet in the Osteria in the evening for a glass of red, today people tend to socialize over an aperitivo, which is primarily served with white and sparkling wines. These are particularly popular with boys. In a survey in Italy at the wine fair, 63 percent of participants between the ages of 18 and 24 said sparkling wines were their preferred variety.
Finally, climate change and the associated warmer temperatures are cited as the reason why the popularity of white wines is increasing. Because with average temperatures of up to 22 degrees, like last March in Italy, it’s better to treat yourself to a nice glass of white wine instead of a full-bodied red.
Dispute over alcohol
It’s not the only change. Non-alcoholic wine is currently showing strong growth figures. It is still a niche product, but “it is a trend that is here to stay,” says Martin Foradori Hofstätter, well-known wine producer from South Tyrol, in “Repubblica”. It could be an alternative for customers who cannot or do not want to consume alcohol for health or religious reasons.
Meanwhile, purists turn up their noses. You can’t talk about wine, they say, and point to the undoubtedly lower quality of non-alcoholic products at the moment. Agriculture Minister Lollobrigida belongs to the purist faction. For him one thing is certain: “Let’s call it a grape-based drink, but please not wine.”
Foradori Hofstätter sees it pragmatically. One also speaks of caffeine-free coffee or lactose-free milk. Non-alcoholic wine is part of the wine value chain – “So why shouldn’t we call it that?” Italy must be careful not to lose market share in this segment. There was a similar debate recently in meat production. On Lollobrigida’s initiative, the government imposed a ban on laboratory meat.
As with meat, wine also shows what is always at stake in Italy when we talk about agriculture: a battle between traditionalists and modernizers, between old and new. And that’s exactly why they all go there, the politicians and the celebrities, when the industry presents itself in Verona and elsewhere. These are the arenas in which the political struggle for Italy’s future becomes particularly clear.