Many people often think of the spicy taste (mala) of Sichuan or the red hot pots like lava in Chongqing when talking about Chinese cuisine. However, historical documents of the Qing Dynasty prove that Guizhou people were the first residents to put chili into their daily menu more than 260 years ago.
Although the terrain is characterized by steep slopes and is the only province in China without plains, Guizhou possesses soil conditions for chili plants to grow, making it the largest chili growing region in the country.
During the low season, purchasing factories in Guizhou still operate continuously to process bales of dried chili. Statistics show that by 2025, the amount of chili circulating through this hub will reach 380,000 tons, serving export to more than 80 countries and territories.
Guizhou’s position comes not only from its output but also from its creativity in processing. Three centuries ago, when European traders introduced this plant, indigenous people initially only considered it an ornamental plant. Due to the lack of arable land and resources to raise livestock, they experimented with adding this spicy flavor to their meals and created countless unique products.
A typical dish is hula jiao (hand-pounded roasted chili), an indispensable dipping sauce in the daily meal of indigenous people. In traditional families, people still keep the habit of cooking on the terrace.
They use wild ferns as fire starters and burn pine branches to get ash mixed directly into the pan to maximize the smoked flavor. The finished products are batches of scorched chili peppers, emitting a strong aroma like grilled ripe fruit. When mixed with soy sauce and cooking oil, this sauce creates the slight bitter taste of kitchen smoke mixed with the natural sweetness of meat (umami).
The presence of the globally famous jar of steamed chili sauce born in Guizhou is the result of the adaptation and commercialization of agricultural products by indigenous people.